How To Climb Mount Elbrus


Ever wonder what it would take to be one of the great mountaineers? What it would take to be like Kenton Cool, Edmund Hillary or even Scott Devlon? To find out the drama and suspense Scott Devlon experienced in his latest adventure on Mount Elbrus read Murder on Elbrus.

Below is day to day itinerary of what it would take to summit Mount Elbrus, the highest mountain in Europe, from the traditional route. Every expedition can produce different results, due to weather, experience and skill. Mount Elbrus is known as the most deadly mountain and on average 30 climbers a year never leave the mountainside.

Day one begins with a 2 hour flight from Moscow to Mineralnye Vody, which is the gateway to the Caucasus. From Mineralnye Vody there is a 4 hour bus ride through small towns and villages in the Baksan Valley and ends at a hotel for the night.

Day two begins with a trip to Cheget Glade, the social center of the valley. In order to help climbers acclimate, they can travel from Cheget Glade to Lesser Donguzorun ridge at 3860m. On the ridge climbers will see the foreboding monster, Mount Elbrus, they will attempt in the very near future.

On day three climbers travel to Garabashi huts called Bochki or "barrels" at 3750m. Day three is important for acclimatization. Many expeditions hike to Pastukhov Rocks at 4750m. At night the climbers retire to the "barrels".

Day four is spent resting and preparing for the next half of the trip.

Day five is difficult, it is the long and hard ascent of the West Summit. Provided the weather allows, the entire summit and descent can be made in this day. From the saddle between the two summits climbers are given stunningly contrasting views of the north and south.

Many expeditions leave day six as a "reserve day". It is used to make up for bad weather or other set backs.

On day seven climbers are able to return to "civilization" and are able to shower and sleep at local hotels. This is also, for many expeditions, the night of celebration for the climbers who just summitted Mount Elbrus.

Day eight is spent driving and flying out of Mineralny Vody, to Moscow and possibly on to where ever the climbers call home.

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